Chicken Run

No, not really. More accurately, it’s lunch-on-the-run with glutinous rice chicken or lo mei kai.

Sometimes, when I’m too busy to stop and eat a ‘proper’ lunch, my mum (ever doting and loving that she is) will, on occasions, buy various types of dim sum (literally translated as “touch the heart” -- small Chinese tapas-style food items) for me; foods that I can eat on the go.

One of my favorite “Chinese fast food” is pau / bao or steamed buns; which I have already talked about in quite long-winded depth previously. Another classic Cantonese dim sum item that I enjoy is glutinous rice chicken -- pieces of marinated chicken and a little bit of gravy steamed with glutinous rice. I really like the whole concept of a simple dish that encompasses many different textural and taste experiences in one, that has both carbs and protein, and… as an added bonus, is highly portable and convenient.

I have two ‘regulars’ when it comes to ready-made, take-away lo mei kai -- I like the one from Teck Kee Tanglin Pau and the version by Tiong Bahru Pau. The latter, at S$1.30 (US$0.80), is ten cents cheaper, but the eating experience can be somewhat inconsistent at times, depending on which part of the large, multi-layered steamer your particular serving of lo mei kai is taken from (more on this later). Still, I have to say, it edges out -- by the width of a chicken feather -- Teck Kee’s offering in my hierarchy of food-likes; I much prefer the texture and flavors of Tiong Bahru’s rice. Having said that, I probably eat Teck Kee more often, simply because it is more convenient. Besides, it is tastily satisfying enough.

It used to be that lo mei kai always come wrapped and steamed in lotus leaves. That still happens in some of the better Chinese restaurants, but for these quick take-out dim sum outlets, convenient disposable tin foil containers have become the norm.

Or, as in the case of Tiong Bahru Pau, the lo mei kai are steamed in individual aluminium bowls, and then emptied onto and wrapped up in greaseproof brown paper for the customer to take home.

The two key components of a good lo mei kai are the texture (mouth-feel) of the glutinous rice, and of course, the flavors of the chicken, from which the rice gets most of its taste also.

The glutinous rice by Teck Kee has a more pronounced “Q-Q” mouth-feel -- that characteristic chewy, sticky bite of glutinous rice. Many people highly enjoy (and seek out) this “Q-Q” bite (like my mum), whereas my dad and I belong to the group more partial to glutinous rice that starts with a somewhat softer, almost meltingly tender mouth-feel, before finishing with a softer, less pronounced chewy bite.

Like that from Tiong Bahru Pau.

As mentioned earlier, it is not necessarily a given that you will get that perfect balance of soft tenderness, and firm, chewy bite each time. I have found that the texture of Tiong Bahru Pau’s glutinous rice can depend a lot on which part of the steamer that particular bowl of rice is cooked in. Some parts of the steamer seem to produce rice that is excessively hard and chewy (almost falling a tad on the side of undercooked), while other parts can give rice that is too soft and mushy. Then there are the “sweet spots” in the steamer that produce perfectly tender, yet slightly chewy rice -- and when I get one of those, it is all pretty darn tasty! Good enough to send me back time and again, even though there are many times when I get ones I don’t like!

I’m also more partial to the taste of the chicken and gravy at Tiong Bahru -- the flavors just seem fuller and deeper, with a more pronounced peppery overtone. They also add enough gravy to nicely moisten the rice, and to give it a darker color which I find highly appealing.

Teck Kee’s flavors, on the other hand, are lighter and more restrained. They are also generally more generous with the chicken pieces, and even throw in a slice of char siew (Chinese bbq pork) for good measure.

Over all, I like both -- one more than the other depending on my mood. Either way, they are a deliciously quick and easy way to have a cheap lunch on the go.

Of course, one of my all-time favorite lo mei kai is the home-made version, where everything can be cooked to suit my personal preferences. It’s a fairly involved process, but well worth the effort I think. The recipe will be coming up in a couple of days (I hope).

Copyright © 2004 Renee Kho. All Rights Reserved.
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